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Black is the New Black

Every so often in ready-to-wear trends, other neutral shades have been deemed the “new black,” but none have replaced or even come close to upstaging this ubiquitous color. In jewelry, black in metal, stones and a combination of both has become one of the most prevalent directions and will continue into 2010.

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Michael O’Connor

The trend was popular in mourning jewelry of the Victorian era but really came into its own during the art deco movement of the early 20th century.

Today, these vintage pieces remain popular purchases. The trend really started to pick up two to three years ago, with designers suspending white metal and diamond pendants from black leather and rubber cords. It also worked with many of the ready-to-wear trends of the past few years: medieval, streamlined, bolder splashy and artistic colors in clothing.

Designers are lately working with more black gems. Gurhan has a great collection of black diamonds. Many designers are creating collections that mix unusual materials with black to create some very updated styles. Shamballa Jewels weaves and crochets black sapphires or black diamond pavé beads to black silk to create unique talisman-style bracelets.

Michael O'Connor is a jewelry and style expert and TV commentator.

Helena Krodel

Black is the one color that will always make a woman look thinner, sophisticated, elegant and sexy.

Over the past two years, designers have been showing oxidized sterling silver and black rhodium-plated gold, creating jewelry that has a timeworn feeling. As the cost of gold climbed, jewelers began using sterling silver to save costs. When silver is blackened and touches of gold are added, it provides an intriguing look at accessible price points.
A drive for things that look aged is a point to consider. They aren’t as in-your-face.

Black gemstones — specifically black rough diamonds — are relevant this year. Women prefer to look put together with unique pieces that say something about who they are without having their jewelry outshine them. These pieces also have beauty in their subtlety, which is more elegant than wearing something over-the-top in this economic environment.

Helena Krodel is director of Media and Special Events for the Jewelry Information Center.

Duvall O’Steen

The black and white trend in fashion seems to have been the impetus for the introduction of many black materials into fine jewelry.

Recently, we have been seeing more gold hardware (grommets, studs beading) on black accessories, as well as more black set into gold in jewelry. These complement nearly everything in a jewelry wardrobe.

Discerning consumers are becoming more educated about gemstones and are now gravitating to the beauty of black diamonds (as well as other colored diamonds) as a more sophisticated option when seeking exclusivity. Designers now offer a great variety of darker stones, as well as darker materials, especially when mixed with gold. Black cords are increasingly popular at lower price points and they bring back something of the choker trend from the ’80s. Oxidized silver is also being mixed with gold for a fresh, urban appeal.

Duvall O'Steen is director of Jewelry PR & Promotion at the World Gold Council.

This story is from the January-February edition of INDESIGN