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13 Mar
Tuesday, 13 March 2012 05:23

Paris Weak in Jewelry, Except “Power Pendants”

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I find it ironic that the country that gave us jewelry masterpieces from the likes of Lalique, Boucheron, and Cartier, held their Fall 2012 runway shows with little attention to jewelry. That said, when fashion designers at the Paris shows did give jewelry adornment its due, it was all about the neck.

When necklaces appeared—like on the Nina Ricci and Rochas runways—they were always extra large. Yes, I admit I liked that—but not only because I’m “a jewelry person,” but because the clothes really needed them: Two of the leading trends to emerge from the shows were dark colors and menswear themes. Admittedly, all the “daywear a la dudes” did look chic, and the sea of black and deep colors was surely sophisticated. But really, what about when it’s time to lighten up?

In answer to that question . . . bring on the number-one jewelry trend from this fall’s Paris shows: “Power Pendants.” Well that’s what I’m calling them. Strong, never subtle, sometimes playful, and always showstoppers. Alber Elbaz for Lanvin especially seemed to have such fun with them.

If you think back over this past year, some of the best jewelry brands have also been having a good time with power pendants. Remember Todd Reed’s uber-locket of moonstones, sapphires, and diamonds, which took top honors in the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards Competition? And just recently, Reena Ahluwalia’s winning pendant necklace in the Rio Tinto Global Design Competition?

But beyond the competitions, within the last year, as we’ve seen more designers “quietly” launching small one-of-a-kind collections for their special clientele, I’ve been intrigued by how their signature style translates into what can only be described as wearable works of art. For so long now, everyone has been talking about the era of the strong, modern woman—well aren’t these pendants exactly what she wants?

During this show season as new collections for fall/winter are launched, I suggest keeping a close eye out for some special “power pendants.” Am I saying they will be one of the year’s biggest jewelry trends? Yes, yes I am.

Antonini sapphire pendant in 18k gold.

Lorraine DePasque’s Blogs Fine Jewelry Style and Trends with a Point of View


Last modified on Tuesday, 13 March 2012 05:39
Lorraine DePasque

Lorraine DePasque is a contributing writer for INSTORE and INDESIGN. She is also a freelance journalist who has covered the fine jewelry industry for more than two decades. Having seen thousands of collections, met thousands of artisans, schlepped through hundreds of trade shows, judged hundreds of design competitions, and writtten several thousand jewelry articles, she has one simple request: “Please don’t tell me something is innovative when it isn’t.”